TYPES OF LEATHER GRAINS




Types of Leather Grains
Nubuck, bonded, patent—there are many categorizations of leather:
Top-grain leather: Top-grain leather is the thickest and most durable type of leather. Top-grain leather includes the outside layer of the hide, which is referred to as the grain. There are a few types of top-grain leather, including full-grain (considered the highest quality), corrected grain (treated to eliminate flaws), and nubuck (sanded down to feel smooth, like suede).
Split leather: Split leather is made from scraps of leftover leather (called corium) after the top grain is removed. It is not as strong and durable as top-grain leather, but it tends to be softer and smoother without the top grain. Types of split leather include suede (made from the underside of the skin), bi-cast leather (has a layer of vinyl attached to appear similar to full-grain), and patent leather (lacquered to appear smooth and shiny).
Bonded leather: Bonded leather is made by taking leather scraps and fusing them together to create the appearance of a full sheet of leather. Bonded leather is rarely seen in fashion textiles, and is more common in leather upholstery.
Faux leather: Fake leather is made from synthetic materials instead of animal skin.
Materials
Natural Vegetable Tanned Leather is steer hide that has been tanned with tannin found in tree bark and other vegetable matter, but neither dyed nor oiled (thus explaining it’s skin like appearance). It is a full grain leather, meaning the top side has not been sanded, buffed, or otherwise corrected to the remove natural patterns and grain. Because of this, the fibers remain in tact and strong. The material is greatly influenced by its environment and will initially change color like human skin when exposed to direct sunlight. This leather ages to a beautiful dark caramel brown, and will burnish darker in spots of frequent contact. After years of field testing and observation, vegetable tanned leathers are sourced from tanneries both domestic and abroad for specific weights, tempers and aging properties.
Hot Stuffed Leather does not describe a specific type of leather, but a process that is done to leather. Hot Stuffing literally means stuffing a hide full of animal waxes and tallows (processed animal fat) until the hide is fully impregnated through the core. This is a traditional method dating back hundreds of years. Hot stuffing creates an amazing feel, and results in a leather that will essentially take care of itself for many years as the oils and waxes from the core are drawn up to the surface. Hot stuffed leather products may arrive looking cloudy; this is excess wax which can be buffed out or allowed to wear off over time.
Harness Leather is a steer hide vegetable tanned leather that is dyed in drums and stuffed with oils and tallows. Harness is produced with strength being the #1 priority, which means it is subjected to fewer waxes and oils than other leathers to preserve the strength of the fibers. It is nice and firm even at thinner weights. Harness keeps it's shape well when split down thin so we often use it for card slots and slim models. Besides black, all of our harness will age darker over time
Old World Harness is harness leather that has been hot stuffed.
Latigo is a steer hide that is alum tanned and drum dyed. Latigo is most easily explained as the waxed canvas of leather; it is a utilitarian tanage meant for use in all conditions. Because of the tanning process, latigo lends itself nicely to outdoor use due to it's resistance to water. Latigo will burnish in areas of high contact. It is soft like a bridle with the firm hand of a harness, which is the best of both worlds if you ask us!
*English Bridle Leather is a steer hide vegetable tanned leather much like Harness Leather. The main difference is that bridle leather is impregnated with more oils to emphasize the feel and comfort of the hide. It is more luxurious to the touch and a bit waxier and softer than harness leather. We use it primarily in applications where a heavier weight leather can be accommodated.
Chromexcel (CXL) is a steer hide leather made by the Horween® tannery in Chicago. It is the original pull up leather, hand rubbed with dyes and hot stuffed with oils resulting in beautiful dimensional tones. Chromexcel is a plyable leather, which is why it is widely used for making shoes- it will stretch to almost any shape required.
Genuine Shell Cordovan is world renowned as the nicest leather available, made by the Horween® tannery in Chicago. It is produced from one specific part of the horse hide, which lies under the skin and must be skillfully revealed by shaving down fibrous layers. Unlike other leathers, Shell Cordovan is a membrane. This means the leather is extremely dense - most scuffs can be buffed out with a cloth, and if regularly maintained the material will shine like new for decades. Each hide is only 2-4 sq. feet in area, and takes 6-7 months to produce. It is offered as it becomes available.
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What Are the Benefits of Conditioning Leather?
Conditioning leather can be beneficial for many reasons:
Keeps leather looking great. As leather ages and is exposed to the elements, it starts to dry out and look ashy or dusty. Conditioning reinvigorates leather with necessary natural oils, refreshing its appearance and making it look smooth and hydrated—similar to how lotion moisturizes dry skin to make it look smooth and healthy.
Improves leather’s durability. When leather gets old and dry, it becomes brittle and can be prone to cracking with even gentle use. Once your leather has cracked, there’s not much you can do to mend it back together seamlessly. It’s important to take steps to prevent those cracks from happening in the first place. Conditioning your leather will keep it supple and flexible, avoiding those damaging cracks.
Adds a layer of protection. While leather conditioning isn’t the final step of leather care, conditioning your leather can give it a mild layer of protection against water damage or stains. (To fully care for your leather, you should also consider designated leather protectants like leather beeswax, making your leather water-resistant and more durable in conditions like direct sunlight, snow, and rain.)
How to Condition Leather
Whether you’ve got a leather couch, a leather bag, or leather car seats, here’s a step-by-step guide to conditioning your leather:
1. Remove straps or accessories. Before you work with your leather, remove any fasteners, laces, straps, or other accessories so that you can easily condition the nooks and crannies of the leather.
2. Clean the leather. Using a damp cloth (a microfiber cloth is best but not necessary), wipe down the entire surface of the leather to remove any noticeable build-up of dirt or grime. Then, apply a dime-sized amount of designated leather cleaner (like saddle soap) to your cloth and evenly apply it to the leather, working in a circular motion to allow the leather to absorb it.
3. Allow the leather to dry overnight. To ensure that the leather is completely clean and dry before conditioning, let the leather rest in a dry place overnight.
4. Wipe away any cleaning residue. After your leather has rested, wipe away any excess cleaning residue with a dry cloth.
5. Test a small spot with the conditioner. To ensure that the conditioning agent you’ve chosen won’t cause discoloration to your leather, apply a small amount using a clean cloth and allow it to sit for an hour. Most conditioned leather will look darker due to the moisturizing process. If the spot seems drastically darker and undesirable to you, try out a different leather conditioner for this particular item.
6. Condition the leather. Apply a dime-sized amount of designated leather conditioner (like mink oil) to a soft cloth (microfiber is best but not necessary). Avoid using DIY leather care products, like olive oil or coconut oil, which can potentially harm your item. Begin rubbing the clean leather in circular motions with the cloth. Cover the entire surface of the leather to ensure even distribution of the conditioner.
7. Allow the leather to rest. After applying the conditioner, allow your leather to air-dry a second time—overnight is usually best to ensure complete drying.
8. Wipe away any conditioning residue. After the leather has rested, use a clean, dry cloth to wipe away any residue the conditioner may have left behind. Your leather should now look smooth and hydrated.
For best results, condition leather goods regularly, any time it starts looking faded or dry. Many dedicated leather owners condition their leather products as often as once a month to make sure the goods look and feel their best.